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Saturday, November 7, 2009

Colloidal / Ionic Silver constant current - Part 2

Part 2

This is the AC version parts:


AC version soldered.

AC version put in a cottage cheese container. Notice that it puts out a max of about 39 volts with no load.

Here I started with a very clean jar and some 99.99% pure silver Canadian maple leaf coins.
Well, I did some experiments with just the AC constant current and decided I didn't like it. It didn't seem very efficient even after running all night. I decided to add a full wave bridge to the circuit to make it a DC output. At that point it was running at 0.5 mA.
This worked much better. It starts with a higher voltage and maintains a constant current. As the silver ions go into the distilled water, the resistance drops. This means the voltage has to drop just to maintain constant current. On one batch it started at about 9 volts and on a different brand of distilled water it started at 28 volts. That means the second batch's water was way more pure, even though they are both distilled.

Here is a pic showing the new DC version running for a bit.

This shows the oxide layer forming on the negative coin.

I had to take it out and wipe it off about once every hour or two. It seemed to take a little less than 1 hour for every ounce of distilled water. About 45 minutes per ounce. A small 4 ounce glass would take about 3 hours and a big 16 ounce mason jar takes about 12 hours. But, you will want to stir it every so often. I just stirred it when I cleaned the oxide off the coin.

I would "cook" it until the voltage output dropped to about 3 to 4 volts. The water would still be perfectly clear. But after a few days it would turn a amber color. I also would filter mine through a non-bleached coffee filter.

Here is a batch after sitting a few days. The jar was wrapped in aluminum foil to keep the light out. (Since this batch and switching to 45 minutes per ounce at 0.5mA, the water stays clear indefinitely. ) This picture shows what happens when cooking for 7 hours when it should have been about 3 or 4 hours. Although it did take a few days to turn amber.

That is a laser being shown though the liquid. This effect is the tyndall effect and it works even when the water is still clear. If you try it with just distilled water you will not see the laser path at all. So this is a good way to test as you are getting close to being done. And you can see something is happening because the voltage is steadily moving down.

Remember that the higher the voltage starts at, then the more pure the water. But if you take the same water and use different sized pieces of silver like silver wire instead of coins, then the voltage will change as well. So, if you are consistent, you can compare different water qualities.

I found that drinking it doesn't seem to help as much as gargling it and swishing it around in your mouth. Once it gets in your stomach, the ions interact with the stomach acid and form silver chlorides. The suspended colloids (about 15% of the solution) will go into your bloodstream. But gargling it gives you a much better absorption. You will need to gargle for 2 to 3 minutes and 3 times a day if you are sick.

Another great way is nasal spray. You can get a dark glass bottle and nasal spray top at most health food stores.

The other way, probably the best, is to use a nebulizer (ultrasonic). I haven't tried this though.
Let me know if you try this and what your experiences are.

thanks,
Richard


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19 comments:

  1. I make one quart batches of CS with a 30V AC adapter snatched from an old Hewlett Packard printer. I put a .3 mA voltage limiting diode (which i ordered from Mouser.com) on the positve lead before the silver electrode (which is .9999 12 gauge wire) Also have an aquarium bubbler tube inserted into the jar for constant stirring, this prevents a denser "current cloud" between the electrodes which increases particle size and creates sludge on the wires.
    Voltage starts at 30V, stabilizes at about 12V after 4-6 hours and then it's done. Product is gin clear, which means small particle size, and stays clear indefinitely. Silver content I estimate about 10-20 ppm.

    Looks like your current is still too high... amber color = large particle size.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Good to hear from you. Actually, I measured my current at 0.5 mA. That batch was done for a longer time than normal. It was clear as well, but after a few days changed color. I think it was well over 20 ppm and the particles started to clump together over a few days. I limit it to 45 minutes per ounce and that stays clear. I also stir it occasionally. I decided not to go with the bubbler because dust is in the air and gets constantly introduced into the water and could end up making silver salts. I did consider a good air filter. But I decided that a small light underneath a metal pan would make thermal convection currents. Small and slow, but effective and cheaper and the water stays pure.

    ReplyDelete
  3. I've read that you cannot judge the ppm only by the colour. Apparently the colour is a property of colloids in solution because they absorb violet light leaving only yellow. So, clear is probably not very strong.

    It's pretty tough to know "how long to cook". I built both a 27v DC and the 40V pulsed DC (AC rectified). I limited the current to 2.2 ma and 1.5 ma respectively, as measured after about 4.5 hours of "cooking". My 10oz batch came out light yellow in both cases, but I only stirred occasionally every 15-30 min. Constant stirring is a must I think after this experiment...I've read that a small toy motor can be most effective in this regard. That's my next step.
    It will be interesting to see if the dark oxide droppings/residues are reduced substantially.
    Pete Nov 18, 2009

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  4. This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.

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  5. Hi, Just wanted to say thanks you for the write up. its well done and very detailed.

    I was having a hard time finding detailed info like this, I didn't want to to risk taking in large particles of silver by making it wrong. I wish i found this page 2 days ago before i ordered one from a manufacturer.

    btw maybe if you know anything about the Sota silver pulsar. I payed a lot for it but i wont complain if it actually makes good quality, small particle colloidal silver. Is this product any good?

    ReplyDelete
  6. Ultra,

    The Sota looks pretty good. 31 volts at 1.5 mA constant current. I'm interested in the blood pulser aspect as well. How much does it cost if you don't mind me asking?

    ReplyDelete
  7. It was quite expensive at $230. but if the silver particle size ranges of 0.005 – 0.015 microns as they claim are true plus the pulser feature, hopefully it'll be worth the price..

    what do you think about the claim of particle size? exaggerated or no? they say they verified this by scanning electron microscope...

    ReplyDelete
  8. I am getting 37.7 DCV from a phone line hooked up to my Magic Jack which is then plugged into my PC.

    When I make CS the silver pieces tarnish quickly and small amounts of black stuff falls down to the bottom of the jar. what is that? Is it normal? do I filter it?

    ReplyDelete
  9. This is fascinating -- thanx for posting

    What type of diodes did you use in the bridge?

    Thank you

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  10. Thankyou lots, I am obliged to announce that your blog is excellent!

    Wellness Nutrition

    ReplyDelete
  11. hi Richard, thanks for your picture tips of how to connect the colloidal silver maker, but i want to add current limit diode to my c/s generator, and i found in your blog in one place 0.75mA...and in other place 1.75mA which one is correct?

    ReplyDelete
  12. Ergoye, you can get either and it will work. After experimenting a few months I decided that between 3 and 4 mA is perfect as a limit. It is also faster without being too fast.

    Richard

    ReplyDelete
  13. hi
    i want to make a generator out of discarded cell phone chargers. they seem to be in the correct voltage range. is this a problem. if you could advise what voltage and amp levels would be best, it would help a lot. there must be millions of unused chargers.
    john b

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  14. Hi Richard,

    The yellow color will occur if the silver particles are larger than 200 nanometers, below this size the colloidal silver will be clear. Silver agglomerates (sticks together) and will show a yellow to amber color, or if the concentration in ppm is very high, i.e., 250 ppm. Swishing the silver ionic colloid (yes, ions can be colloids according to the IUPAC gold book)will bind the silver ions to metallothionein (a metalloprotein) which actively transport the silver through the stomach and bloodstream to the cells without silver chloride formation.

    Steve

    ReplyDelete
  15. Only the positive pole can be silver, the negative pole can be any type of metal, preferably aluminum or copper might be!

    Both poles does not have to be silver!

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  17. What do you think of using a neutralizer which will both coat the nasal cavity as well as the lungs?

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